JoshuaKaiser.com Joshua Kaiser's Blog

9Aug/10

Vedauwoo Climbing & Camping 2010

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Lincoln Monument

This weekend I set off with Dane, Jadon, and Jonah for an adventure at Vedauwoo's amazing sherman granite rock formations.  Vedauwoo most likely comes from an Arapahoe word meaning "earth born".  It features some of the world's finest offwidth climbs, and is a popular destination for climbers all over the world.  Since Dane and I are still limited to sport climbing, we had to search for a while for some route options among the many traditional routes.  Vedauwoo's climbing ethics prevent bolts from being set near any cracks (which are suitable for pro gear) so the sport routes are mostly slabby climbs with few hand holds.

Jadon made his first full outdoor top rope ascent this weekend on Fall Wall's E.O. Friction (5.5).  He followed that up with an ascent on the neighboring E.O. Lieback (5.6).  Dane also achieved his first lead ascent on Beehive Buttress' Middle Staircase (5.7 PG).  The highlight of my weekend was at Beehive Buttress leading Water Streak (5.10a) - and of course cheering Jadon on in his ascents.

Not to leave Jonah out - he tried out a little climbing and was happy to help cheer on a provide comic relief.  At one point he looked at a beetle and exclaimed "Dad, look!  A baby gorilla with wings!"  The beetle declined a photo op.

Checkout the photo gallery here.

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9Aug/10

Vedauwoo Camping & Climbing 2010 Photos

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6Aug/10

Needles Climbing 2010 Photos

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6Aug/10

Needles Climbing 2010

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I hit a road trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota last weekend in search of some unique climbing and relaxing camping in the wake of Sylvan Lake, which has got to be one of the most beautiful little lakes I have ever seen.  Climbing the Needles was amazing, although my guidebook left a lot to be desired.  I've since been told that there is a little shop in Custer that sells climbing gear and some kind of guide cards that have good, up to date beta on the climbs.  That would have been useful knowledge beforehand, but I'm sure I'll return better armed next time.  The best spot up there for sport has got to be the Moonlight Ridge area, which is near the Needles Eye on Needles Highway.

Check out the photo gallery here, or on Picasa.

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Filed under: Climbing, Travel No Comments
18Jul/10

Climbing The Watermark

Adam atop "Road to Eisengard"

This weekend's climb was at The Watermark in Boulder Canyon. After initially getting off course and attempting some climbs at Vampire Rock (which we thought was The Watermark until it became apparent that a route I was attempting was a 5.12 and not a 5.8), we did a little bushwhacking and found our site the hard way (it's actually quite close to the highway if you just follow the guide *blush*). The Watermark is a lot of fun, and has several routes with names inspired by Tolkien's "The Lord of the Rings" series.

I led my first 5.10 outdoors here (Minas Tireth 5.10a). I was unable to on-sight it, but was satisfied just to be able to push through and make a personal milestone. I've included some photos and a video that highlights the crux of the climb.

Check out more photos of the climb.